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People
of Maldives |
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The population of Maldives, which has
increased rapidly in recent years, stood at about 200,000 in 1991 and is expected to reach
about 300,000 by the turn of the century. It is now the 7th most densely populated country
on earth. But apart from severe overcrowding in Male, there is no crisis of space. There
are still nearly a thousand uninhabited islands for occupation. |
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The origins of the Maldivian people are shrouded in mystery. The first settlers may well
have been Naga and Yakka people from Sri Lanka and Dravidians from southern India. Some
say Aryans, who sailed their reed boats from Lothal in the Indus Valley about 4,000 years
ago, probably followed them. Hinduism brought by Tamils and Buddhism brought by Sinhalese
in turn gave way to a growing Arab influence and to Islam in the twelfth century. Located
at the crossways of the Indian Ocean shipping lanes on the main seaway around the Indian
subcontinent, the islands have long been a meeting point for African, Arab, Indonesian and
Malay mariners. Throughout the centuries all contributed to the racial and cultural
melting pot of Maldives. The faces of today's Maldivians reflect the influence of the
various regions of the Indian Ocean. Maldivians do not like been taken as a Indian or a
Sri Lankan. |
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Maldivian society is distinguished by strong social divisions. Traditionally the upper
class, with names like Don Seedi, Don Kaloa, Ibrahim Fulu, Ibrahim Maniku and Moosa
Didi,
were close friends and relatives of the sultan and his family. Yet even among these
families there were marked differences. Well into this century Bell noted that "a
Didi marrying a Maniku lady raises her to his own rank; but the children of a Maniku
father and Didi mother are, strictly speaking, not entitled to the appellation Didi".
Years ago it was unacceptable to eat with a member of an inferior class, and people of a
lower class mixing with a superior only sat on a low stool. Now these distinctions are
breaking down. Indeed, the terms Maniku and Didi are sometimes used as nicknames. |
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Today advancement is based more on merit than birth, although education is now less
important than wealth in commanding respect from others. The number of islands a person
leases or the number of boats they own is also crucial to their social standing. The boat
owner takes about half the day's catch, while the skipper, keyolhu, earns about one fifth.
The rest is divided equally among the fishermen. The men who make the boats "Maavadi meehaa" are respected craftsmen; on their skill depends the fishermen's lives and
thus the well being of the community. The medicine man "Hakeem", stands on the
same social rung. Skilled tradesmen like blacksmiths and jewelers also command a great
deal of respect. At the bottom of the social heap is the toddy-tapper,
"Raaveria", who looks after the coconuts and taps sap for toddy and syrup.
Although long ago Maldives was ruled by sultanas and may have had a matrilineal system of
inheritance, it is very much a man's world today. |
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Traditionally, men eat before the rest of the family and make all the major decisions,
while the women stay at home and look after the family. The sharp division of labor not
only reflects the exigencies of island life, but the injunctions of traditional Islam. Yet
despite the clear divisions between rich and poor, especially in Male', "there is no
poverty". The island community and the extended family act as a safety net for its
members. Even in the capital, "no one sleeps in the streets or goes to bed
hungry". In this sense, being small has its blessings, for every one knows each other
and is willing to lend a hand. Arms-giving remains one of the fundamental tenets of Islam. |
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In the western quarter of the capital, Male', live the survivors of the "Giraavaru
people", who were translocated from the neighboring island of "Giraavaru"
now a popular tourist resort, after severe erosion of the island. They were first moved to
Hulhule' and subsequently to Male' when the airport was expanded. They claim they are the
original inhabitants of Maldives and throughout the centuries have kept themselves apart
from the rest of society. Generally they are considered descendants of Tamils from
southern India, although some argue that they may share their ancestry with the aborigines
of Australia. |
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The women tie their hair in a bun on the right side of the head, other Maldivians tie it
on the left. They also decorate the top of their libaas (dress) with a special style of
silver embroidery. The women are extremely modest, it is said that they rarely completely
undress themselves. The Giraavaru people not only have different customs, but also speak
with a different accent from the people on Male'. In someway it is closer to the dialect
found on Seenu Atoll in the south. Tragically, the Giraavaru people are at the abyss of
extinction, down to no more than 150. As the young marry outside their group and move into
mainstream society, it is unlikely that the Giraavaru people will remain a distinct
community for much longer yet another unique group unable to survive the struggle towards
a modern homogenous society. |
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The people of Maldives have long been an enigma to visitors. Earlier accounts tended to
express the prejudices of the observers rather than offer objective information, if such
were possible. |
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The Arab traveler, Ibn Battuta found them "upright and pious, sound in belief and
sincere in thought". The French Parmentier brothers felt that they were
"poor-looking creatures" although their compatriot, Francois Pyrard declared
Maldivians to be "quick and apprehensive, subtle and crafty". Not surprisingly,
the Portuguese who tried to colonize the country in the sixteenth century had a low
opinion of them; according to the chronicler, Duarte Barbosa, they were "dull and
malicious". While admitting they were "feeble folk", his fellow countryman
Joao De Barros added that they were "very clever; and above all they are mighty
magicians". Since they offered little defense against aggressors, the Maldivians had
to rely on guile to survive. They were fortunate in fostering the belief that if they were
harmed, then harm would befall the perpetrator. As Ibn Battuta put it, "their armour
is prayer". |
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The British, who became their protectors in the nineteenth century, were both attracted by
their peacefulness and annoyed by their apathy. Captain Moresby, who undertook a maritime
survey for the British Admiralty in 1834 -1836, observed that the Maldivians "always
treated us with kindness and respect, yet with shyness and suspicion, supposing our
motives". His assistants, Lieutenants I. A. Young and Wilmott Christopher of the
Indian Navy, who left an interesting account of their stay, also reported that the
Maldivians were "a quiet, peaceable race, hospitable and kind to strangers, though
suspicious and distrustful of them". Such attitudes, of course, were a product of
island life. Nearly all commentators have remarked on the Maldivians' superstitious nature
and of their fear of jinni (spirits) despite their faith in Islam. |
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In 1922 British civil servant and antiquarian, H.C.P. Bell wrote, "a delightful
spirit of ease and contentment seems to prevail universally", although he stressed
their insularity, even in the capital. Maldives "desires nothing so greatly as to be
left by the outside world as much as possible alone, to 'lotus-eat' and remain undisturbed
in its sea-girt happy isolation". Maldivians are totally adapted to their maritime
environment. Like all seafarers, they carefully observe the patterns of nature around them
and shape their lives accordingly. They take a keen interest in the weather, which
determines when they go fishing, plant crops or sail over the horizon. |
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Their calendar, "Nakaiy", refers to any one of the twenty-eight seasonal
divisions of the year and the clusters of stars that represent them. The origins of the
calendar probably lie in the Indus Valley Civilization in Pakistan, the root of the word
Nakaiy is the Sanskrit word nakshatra for star or heavenly body. The system not only
determines the seasons for fishing and agriculture but also predicts the future through
astrology. It thus offers a fascinating combination of common sense, scientific
observation and downright superstition: during certain seasons, for example, it is
considered auspicious to dig a well, to start wearing jewelry, or to lay the keel of a new
boat. |
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Although all Maldivians are Muslims, they are also extremely superstitious, believing in
mysterious supernatural beings called "Dhevi". The origins of this belief in
spirits almost certainly antedates Islam, for many of the words used to describe them are
from Sanskrit and Pali. |
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A scholar and a historian "Hassan Ahmed Maniku" suggests that a Dhevi refers to
"the idea of an invisible, but sometimes visible, being capable of moving across the
high seas, land, and even through barriers. It may be helpful or harmful. It may require
supplication, rebuke, or even sacrifice". To describe the dhevi, Maldivians often use
the Arabic word, Jinni which in Islam are considered a third group of created beings apart
from humans and angels. They are said to be made of fire and have super human powers,
although on Judgement Day they will be called to account with human beings. |
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Lieutenants Young and Christopher observed that "the most absurd and superstitious
fancies exert a powerful and pernicious influence on the people". Certainly they
believe that spirits live all around them in nature: in the sea, in the sky, in the trees
and in the rain. At night, for instance, many islanders lock their doors and windows, and
keep a small kerosene lamp burning to keep out evil spirits. |
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Hassan Maniku goes so far as to argue that primitive Maldivian society managed to produce
"a religion of its own". While the Islamic authorities throughout the centuries
have condemned many of these beliefs, they betray remarkable originality and vision and
form a unique treasure trove of folklore and stories. The islanders see no clash between
their belief in Islam and in Dhevi. Often they give long recitals from the Qur'an or other
Arabic texts to ward off the evil eye and keep evil spirits at bay, but they do not rely
completely on the power of the holy word. When extraordinary events occur, many islanders
turn to the local wise man immersed in "Fanditha", a special knowledge that is
part science and part magic. If the rains fail, the fishing is poor or a woman is barren,
the Fanditha is consulted. With his potions and charms he calls upon spirits to achieve
his end. In an uncertain world where the unknown is feared, a belief in Fanditha gives
Maldivians a sense of control over their destiny. |
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There are many different spirits and stories connected with the Fhevi. The most famous,
about "Rannamaari", the sea monster in the reign of Koimala who demanded the
sacrifice of a virgin on Male' Island and who was thwarted by a young Arab reading the
Qur'an, was recorded by Ibn Battuta, during his stay in the fifteenth century, Francois
Pyrard de Laval noted that the Maldivians believed in. "A king of the sea, to who in
like sort they make prayers and ceremonies while on a voyage; or when they go fishing,
they dread above all things to offend the kings of the winds and of the sea. So, too, when
they are at sea, they durst not spit nor throw anything to windward for fear unless he
should be offended, and with like intent they look a baft." Many fishermen still
believe in a Dhevi called "Odivaru Ressi" who lives in the sea, usually harming
fishing boats, fishermen, fish bait and schools of fish, although it can also be
benevolent. Sometimes it appears overhead as a long dark or red shadow, or as a sailfish,
black marlin or wahoo. If it takes possession of the boat it can ruin the fishing and
cause itching all over the body. |
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The Dhevi who is the lord of death is called "Vigani". It inhabits the seas and
may be seen on water near the horizon. Some describe Vigani as a small man or in the shape
of a greyish monkey with a thick covering of hair. Sometimes it is also said to have a
long, elephant like trunk which it uses to suck food from the graves of the dead. Vigani
is said to be the cause of sudden death and major epidemics. |
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Hassan Maniku observes: "In some islands when too many people die suddenly, Fanditha
men look for signs and determine the cause to be from Vigani by looking at the sunset and
the crimson clouds on the west. "If a small compact cloud in the shape of a fish is
seen glowing, then the cause of death is attributed to Vigani. He then performs Fanditha
and tries to cut the cloud into pieces. "If he is unable to do this, it means that
the entire community will be obliterated. Then the community moves to another island and
settles there." The spiritual leader of all Dhevi is "Buddevi", who lives
in jungles, on the beach, near thick undergrowth or around abandoned houses. It can even
appear where the water drips from coconut leaves after a shower of rain. It may be seen as
a cat or a well built man. It is said that whoever sees this malevolent Dhevi falls ill. |
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Islanders still rely on traditional medicine men and women. At the crossroads of the
Indian Ocean, healing secrets from Indians, Arabs, Persians, Malaysians, Sri Lankans and
Chinese were acquired and synthesized, then used to develop local herbal remedies. |
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Legends abound about the feats of such special healers as "Buraki Ranin", the
sixteenth century queen of Sultan Muhameed, who was said to cure sword wounds overnight
with her own dressings. The treatise written by Sheikh Hussain of Meedhoo in Seenu Atoll
who died in 1916 forms the foundation of today's traditional medicine. Known as
hakeems,
practitioners of this medicine are well respected by the village communities. A basic
tenet of their philosophy is that good health is a result of a proper balance between the
hot, cold and dry "humours" in the body, so "cold food" is recommended
for someone with fever, and dry fish for flu. Some hakeems are schooled in
"Unani" medicine, which treats the whole person, combining ancient remedies with
new drugs. In recent years there has been an attempt to integrate traditional and modern
medicine. Advice and training, for instance, is offered to local midwives who learned
their skill from older practitioners. |
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Most Maldivians lead a simple existence in harmony with nature. One of the great
attractions of Maldives is that it does offer a way of life adapted to the environment; a
life style in which the people have little material desires. However, it would be wrong to
conclude that Maldivians lead a life of "lotus eaters" in a lost paradise. To
scratch a living the islanders spend long, hard hours fishing at sea, entirely at the
mercy of the elements. Women worry about making ends meet; men worry about their catch.
Most family's experience enforced separation, with the men either working in the resorts
or foreign shipping lines. There is a large element of stoic resignation in the Maldivian
approach to life. Perhaps because they go away and return so often, Maldivians have no
word in Dhivehi for "goodbye" or "hello". At the same time, the
burning interest in political intrigue and the volatile nature of their personal relations
must surely reflect the need to express emotions that are necessarily repressed in
close-knit, all embracing island communities. |
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The government owns all land. Villages are laid out on a rectangular plan, and each family
is granted an area known as a "goathi" measuring fifteen meters (49 feet) by
thirty meters (98 feet). Surrounded by small coral walls, within each goathi is a garden
with several shady trees including mango, breadfruit, coconut, arecanut palm, banana and
papaya. Most have several chair like hammocks on wooden frames, "Joali" fixed in
the sand or hanging from a tree, and a swinging wooden bed, "Udhoali", an ideal
place to relax on a hot, sultry day. The main house in the centre of the compound, has
several rooms and is used for sleeping. Food is cooked in a separate, coral shack,
"Badhige" with a thatched roof and no windows, containing two or three hollows
for stoves. Most families also have a deep well for water. The "bathroom" is
behind an inner coral closure called a "Gifili" where a latrine is dug in the
coral sand. |
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The rectangular houses were originally constructed from cadjan (woven palm fronds), but
walls are now commonly made from coral fragments held together with lime made from burning
coral slowly for a long time. Coral is mined in the adjoining reefs to a depth of a meter
(three feet) or so. An even stronger "cement" can be made by mixing the lime
with ash, charcoal and "syrup" made from coconut sap. Although iron is hotter,
islanders prefer corrugated iron roofs to thatch because it does not have to be replaced
every few years. Inside, the houses are very dark. The small windows are not placed to
create a cross breeze. Flat wooden benches serve as beds at night and seats during the
day, and there is invariably a swinging bed, Udhoali hanging from the rafters. Most
families keep their valuables in a wooden trunk under a bed. During the day, a great deal
of time is spent in the shade of the verandah or under spreading breadfruit trees. Swings
and hammocks attached to wooden frames are favorite lounging spots for grandparents and
children. At night the doors and windows of many houses are shut tightly to keep out any
passing jinni. |
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The close-knit island communities practice mutual aid to survive difficult circumstances.
Extended families take care of their own members and it is usual for the mother's family
to look after the children. When they are together families say little and rarely express
emotions. It is not often anyone raises their voice, even at the children. Few children
speak to their remote but respected fathers. Women usually serve the family two meals of
rice and fish a day, adding to their limited housekeeping budget by mat weaving or making
coir. About one-third of the houses and coconut trees are owned by women, giving them a
degree of economic independence. Since men usually work away from home either fishing, in
the resorts or sailing with a shipping company, the women are responsible for the everyday
running of the household. On some islands there are few men between the ages of eighteen
and forty-five. |
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Women usually spend about three hours a day on household chores: cleaning the house and
compound and preparing food. Their chores include tending fires made from scarce wood in
the smoky kitchens, making the morning unleavened bread, roshi, and preparing rice and
fish broth, garudia, for the main evening meal. Preparing the golden honey from coconuts,
"Dhiyaa Hakuru", involves several hours of stirring, as does the concentrated
fish paste "Rihaukuru", which goes with most meals. There are also coconuts to
grate for curries and boil for oil, and the time consuming task of making the rock hard
black fillets of tuna, "Hikimas". The main opportunity for relaxation and gossip
comes when the women sit on their verandahs or in their yards cleaning the evening's rice
spread out on a tray. Their greatest preoccupations are the education of the children,
food and the daily catch. In the early history of Maldives, it was common to have a
sultana as ruler, and it has been suggested that the society was once a matriarchy. Now,
under the Islamic law of shari'a, men deal with religious and judicial affairs. Women
cannot be judges or priests and they say their prayers in their own mosques. According to
the present constitution, the president is the religious and political leader. |
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Traditionally, Maldivian women never wore burgah and until this century they often went
topless. Now, however, an increasing number of women and young girls cover their heads,
legs and arms in a tradition known locally as Burugaa. It's usually the job of young girls
to collect water from the well in a metal pot which they carry home on their heads. Their
mothers walk to the local village store, Fihaara, which stocks basic items like rice,
sugar and onions, as well as a few luxuries like condensed milk, sweets, oil and soap. All
women, young and old, clean the compound and the road or path outside it, carefully
picking up all the leaves and spreading the coral sand evenly. This is done with a hand
broom, "iloshifathi" made from the thin flexible spines of coconut leaves. To
earn extra money women make coir rope, a long and drawn out process. The husks of coconuts
are first left to rot in swamps for three months or so, then beaten with heavy sticks to
release the fibers. The fibers are then washed, dried and woven together, usually across
the weaver's thighs. When several strands are woven together they form an extremely strong
and waterproof rope, capable of mooring a large dhoani to its anchor. Formerly Maldivian
coir and cables were exported widely to the Far and Middle East. It was also the Maldivian
practice to sew the planks of the ships together with coin A ship's hull held together
with nails is rigid and can splinter to pieces against an Indian Ocean reef. If sewn with
coir, however, it maintains a certain resilience and flexibility. Women also make cadjan
for screens and walls by threading dried palm leaves together with coir. They weave
beautiful and intricate mats, especially in the southern atolls, showing the same skill in
developing their abstract patterns as their husbands do in building their boats simply by
using their imagination and trained eye. |
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Education is broadening the horizons of Maldivian women, who traditionally were expected
to remain at home and look after the family. Girls usually marry very young, at about 15
or 16. The ceremony often takes place in the groom's house or in the island office. The
bride does not even attend. It's enough for the husband-to-be, his father, her father or
the uncle of the bride and two witnesses to confer with the local judge, gazi, to
formalize the marriage. Under Islamic law, men are allowed up to four wives, in the past
it was considered a mark of esteem and piety to have as many. But today it is becoming
rare for a man to have even two. Each wife is considered equal and lives in a different
house. Although some marriages are still arranged, there is an increasing desire for
romantic love, partly inspired by Hindi romance films and Western literature. It's even
easier to divorce than to marry at least for men. The husband merely says "I divorce
you", thalaaq not three times as is usual in Islam, but once and then reports the
fact to the gazi. |
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It's more difficult for women, who must take their case to the gazi and prove cruelty,
desertion or adultery. There are strong Muslim sanctions against adultery. The culprits
are liable to be beaten. It therefore makes sense to form temporary liaisons within the
marriage bond, even for a few months (and in some cases weeks). One well placed inhabitant
of Male' is reputed to have been married eighty-six times. Ten times wed is not uncommon,
but four times is the average. Eight out of ten married people divorce at least once.
Married couples are usually from the same island and endogamy is preferred. Little fuss is
made over weddings. Sometimes a newly married couple arranges a small reception,
"Kaiveni Sai", with tea and snacks and perhaps some dancing with their friends.
More elaborate affairs, however, are creeping in. The wedding of a daughter of a wealthy
family, for instance, who marries a civil servant in Male', can be a grand affair, with
local dignitaries and up to 250 guests attending a feast. On such occasions, the trees are
often decorated with tinsel and colored paper. If there is a generator on the island, the
whole compound blazes with lights. |
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